Photo Tour: The Citadel
On the north side of the Perfume River (the main river that runs
through Hue) is a complex called the Citadel (or, in
Vietnamese, Kinh Tranh). It's
a huge walled area, 10 kilometers (6 miles) around -- like a city
within a city. Built for the emperor at the start of the 19th century,
it stood until 1968 -- when large parts inside, including the
emperor's Forbidden Purple City, were destroyed in the American War.
Some of those parts have been restored; the rest are now used for
agriculture. There's still a lot to see inside (and outside), though,
as you're about to find out!.
To get a larger version of any picture, click on it; a new window
should open. When you close that window, this window should still be
here.
Like I said, it's a big place.
The photo at the left shows a little tiny part of it -- including the
biggest flagpole in Vietnam, 37 meters high, with a Vietnamese flag
that's not too much smaller than the pole! At the right is a view
across the moat toward the Ngan Gate, which is one of ten gates
through the outer walls.
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Once you're inside the Ngan
Gate, you'll find these cannons pointed at you. But they're just
ceremonial; they've never been fired. (Someone was there, sitting
underneath the cannons, enjoying the shade to grab a bite of lunch.)
The photo at the right shows a bit of
the space between the outer wall (which you can see in the background)
and the inner wall (which you'll see next). Like I said, it's a big
place...
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This is the Ngo Mon gate. It's
the main gate to the Imperial Enclosure, which is a sort of
fortress-within-a-fortress where the empire did his official business..
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Go through the gate -- but not
through the central yellow entrance, which was reserved for the
emperor. (The central entrance was blocked when I was there --
but probably to make you go through the other gate and pay the
admission fee. :) Once you're through you'll find the Trung Dao bridge
(here, with
a woman crossing it) which takes you to the large courtyard in fromt
of the Thai Hoa palace:
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Walk around and behind the
palace, then look for the flags and the pond. You've spotted the theatre,
which is where we're headed next on our tour. But if you look off in the
distance (in that green area where the trees are, in the left-hand
photo), that's where the emperor's Forbidden Purple City was until it
was destroyed during the war in 1968. Now it's open land. If you walk
around the theatre, through its courtyard and its gates, then turn
around to see where you've come from, you'll see this view through the
gates:
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The gates open off of a road
that has a dark wall, shaded by trees, on one side. I think it's the
damp climate here in Hue that makes the moss (and whatever else) grow on
the wall and the trees. I don't think that the emperor or his planners arranged
these patterns on the trees and the wall, but I sure noticed them:
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On the other side of that shady
lane is the College of Arts of Hue. If you spend much time in Vietnam,
you'll recognize the profile above the door: it's Ho Chi Minh, who seems
to be almost everywhere. (As were Marx and Lenin, my guidebook said, until
the former Soviet Union fell in 1991 and they both suddenly vanished...)
There's some interesting sculpture in the gardens around the building -- and,
if you sneak around back, you might see some sculpture-in-progress too:
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Speaking of art: Hien Nhon Gate
is just a short walk past the college gardens, and some
artist had fun designing it 200 years ago. It's covered with bright flowers
and other plants in creative patterns, with a bunch of dragons tossed in,
all made from little mosaic tiles. (Do all of the dour-looking guards
appreciate the place they're working in??) Turn right and head back
toward the Perfume River; you might spot some kids playing football
(soccer) near the Thuong Tu Gate that takes you out of the Citadel.
(You can't miss that tall Vietnamese flag, though. It's been somehere
in view at almost all of the places we've been.)
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Hue, Vietnam]
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Goodbye, Vietnam]
[Tour start: Around the World 2003]
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(These photographs are Copyright © 2003 by Jerry Peek.
Much higher-resolution versions of most images,
and many other images too, are available at
Jerry Peek Photography.
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